American Student Experiences in North Korea: A Complex and Contradictory Reality
North Korea, officially known as the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (DPRK), remains one of the most isolated and enigmatic nations in the world. Ruled by the Kim dynasty since 1948, the country has a long history of self-imposed isolation and strict control over its citizens and interactions with the outside world. Despite the inherent risks and potential dangers, some American students have ventured into North Korea, seeking a rare glimpse behind the iron curtain. Their experiences, often a mix of fascination, bewilderment, and concern, offer a unique perspective on this complex nation.
The Allure of the Unknown: Why Study in North Korea?
For some, the motivation to visit or study in North Korea stems from a deep-seated curiosity about a country so shrouded in mystery. Hannah Yi, an American citizen of Korean descent, expressed a lifelong interest in the DPRK, driven by a desire to learn about its people and culture. Similarly, Jeppesen, a 36-year-old American with a background in art and architecture, sought to study the Korean language in an authentic North Korean environment. He had been to North Korea three times before for short trips, writing about its art and architecture for magazines.
Dr. Pam Bryant, a professor of chemistry, was introduced to Joshua Song and Pilju Kim, who wanted to know if she was interested in teaching at Pyongyang University of Science and Technology (PUST). PUST is the only private university in North Korea and is funded in part by Christian donors from around the world.
These individuals were drawn by the allure of the unknown, the opportunity to witness firsthand a society so different from their own. They sought to challenge their preconceptions and gain a deeper understanding of North Korea beyond the often-negative portrayals in Western media.
The Tourist Experience: A Carefully Curated Glimpse
Tourism in North Korea is tightly controlled and carefully orchestrated. Hannah Yi's experience reflects this reality, with her days packed with visits to monuments, museums, schools, and factories. The destinations selected for tourists often serve as a showcase of North Korean prosperity and self-reliance. Workers start the day under a banner that reads “Self Reliance” at the Chollima Steel Complex just outside the city of Pyongyang.
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These tours often include visits to "guest rooms," sparse spaces where polite but often stilted exchanges take place. Bronze statues of the former leaders loom 22 meters high at the Mansudae Grand Monument. Pyongyang is undoubtedly a surreal place with huge portraits and towering statues of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il everywhere. People speak their names constantly. They were curious about my parents, my age, or whether I was married.
The experience can be surreal, with omnipresent reminders of the Kim dynasty's power. As Yi noted, Pyongyang is filled with huge portraits and towering statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il, whose names are constantly invoked. This pervasive propaganda creates an atmosphere that is both fascinating and unsettling.
Language Studies: Immersion in a Controlled Environment
Jeppesen's experience as a language student offered a slightly different perspective. He was able to immerse himself in the language and culture for an extended period, gaining a deeper understanding of daily life. However, even this experience was subject to strict control. Foreign tourists were given two mandatory “guides” whose assignment was to accompany and monitor their “guest” every minute they were in public.
Jeppesen described his hotel's lobby as “grand,” “palatial” and “empty,” which seemed to be a theme. The hotel had a restaurant and bar that drew a business crowd. As such, the hotel’s food was surprisingly satisfactory, including a breakfast buffet with Chinese and Western dishes.
Despite these constraints, Jeppesen found ways to connect with ordinary North Koreans. During one long drive into the countryside of Pyongyang, one of our minders shyly asked me if I had a cookbook with me. She was interested in making new dishes - especially pasta for her son - but had nowhere to get recipes. These interactions, however fleeting, offered glimpses into the everyday lives and aspirations of the North Korean people.
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Encounters with the Ordinary: Glimmers of Humanity
Despite the pervasive propaganda and strict controls, American students in North Korea often encounter moments of genuine human connection. Hannah Yi recalled an elderly woman looking at her with confusion on her last night in Pyongyang, as if only then realizing she was a foreigner. These random and simple moments were what I found most memorable.
These encounters, though brief, reveal the humanity of the North Korean people and challenge the simplistic narratives often presented in the West. They suggest that beneath the surface of political ideology, there exists a shared human experience.
The Shadow of Politics: Navigating a Fraught Environment
The political climate in North Korea inevitably casts a shadow over the experiences of American students. Jeppesen's visit coincided with the case of Otto Warmbier, an American student imprisoned in North Korea after stealing a banner from a hotel earlier that year. “I had been in Pyongyang before when other American prisoners were being held. The media fury didn’t faze me,” he writes. While Jeppesen doesn’t believe he was in danger, other foreigners and expats expressed surprise that an American would risk studying there at such a politically fraught time. “Chinese businessmen [I met in] Pyongyang reiterated the same thing. They were all shocked to learn an American was studying there. Hearing these warnings constantly made me paranoid. I started to realize I was locking into the local psychology.
This incident highlights the risks associated with traveling to North Korea, particularly for Americans. The potential for political tensions to escalate and for tourists to become entangled in diplomatic disputes is ever-present.
The Case of Otto Warmbier: A Tragic Outcome
The story of Otto Warmbier serves as a stark reminder of the potential dangers of traveling to North Korea. Warmbier, a University of Virginia student, was arrested in January 2016 for allegedly stealing a propaganda poster from his hotel. He was sentenced to 15 years of hard labor.
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Shortly after his sentencing in March 2016, Warmbier suffered a severe neurological injury from an unknown cause and fell into a coma, which lasted until his death. North Korean authorities did not disclose his medical condition until June 2017, when they announced he had fallen into a coma as a result of botulism and a sleeping pill. He was freed later that month, still in a comatose state after 17 months in captivity. He was sent back to the United States and arrived in Cincinnati, Ohio, on June 13, 2017.
Warmbier's death sparked outrage in the United States and further strained relations between the two countries. His parents have been vocal in their criticism of the North Korean regime, accusing them of torturing and murdering their son.
The circumstances surrounding Warmbier's death remain disputed. North Korean officials claimed that he contracted botulism and fell into a coma after taking a sleeping pill. However, doctors in the United States found no evidence of botulism and concluded that he had suffered severe brain damage due to oxygen deprivation.
The Warmbier case had a chilling effect on tourism to North Korea, with many Americans reconsidering their travel plans. The U.S. State Department strongly warns American citizens not to travel to North Korea.
The Psychological Impact: Stress and Surveillance
Even without experiencing a crisis like Warmbier's, American students in North Korea often report feeling a significant psychological strain. Jeppesen described the experience as "very, very haunting, and very bizarre," noting the constant surveillance and the inability to communicate freely with the outside world. “Psychologically, it was very difficult and stressful. It had all these weird side effects,” Jeppesen says. “There were moments when I finally was alone and nobody was watching me, yet it felt creepy because I was so used to being watched. The most difficult aspect of his visit was the “psychological stress of not being able to communicate with my parents and my partner back home. I could have bought a SIM card they sell to foreigners that [allow you to] access the Internet on your phone.
The constant presence of minders, the lack of privacy, and the fear of saying or doing something that could be misconstrued can create a sense of unease and anxiety. This psychological pressure can be particularly acute for those who are accustomed to freedom of expression and movement.
Perspectives from Defectors: A Different Reality
The experiences of North Korean defectors offer a stark contrast to the carefully curated experiences of American students. Defectors often speak of widespread poverty, starvation, and repression.
Jieun Lee and her sister, Jueun Lee, volunteered to teach English to North Korean defectors in South Korea. During their service, the sisters heard stories of the North Koreans’ journeys to South Korea and their efforts to keep in limited contact with family and friends-utilizing Chinese phones and keeping calls under five minutes-who remained in North Korea. If the North Korean government detected one of their calls, the North Korean students told the Lees, the soldiers might come to search their family’s apartment. “These defectors don’t come to South Korea directly; they first go to China,” said Jieun. “Defectors crossing the 38th parallel [the line that divides South and North Korea] are very rare. Many defectors buy a broker whom they meet in front of the Yalu River, in order to cross the border into China together. One student crossed the border with a soldier whom she bribed.
One student told Jieun that she received a Japanese skirt as a gift from her aunt who escaped many years ago. She wore it to school and on her way back home a soldier shredded it with scissors. Jueun was similarly moved “to appreciate what I have” after her volunteer work with the refugees, who “basically had no freedom at all in North Korea”-at a very young age, she noted, they were assigned to do work after the school day ended.
These accounts paint a picture of a society far removed from the idealized images presented to tourists. They highlight the human cost of the North Korean regime's policies and the resilience of those who seek freedom.
Chuseok: A Divided Holiday
Chuseok, or the mid-autumn festival, is a major holiday celebrated in both North and South Korea. This time of year is celebrated with Chuseok, or the mid-autumn festival. Also known as “Korean Thanksgiving,” it’s a major holiday that predates the division of the peninsula. Chuseok is observed on the 15th day of the 8th month of the lunar calendar, when the harvest moon shines brightest. Traditionally, people return to their ancestral hometowns to gather with family, share a variety of delicious foods, and pay respects to their ancestors.
For North Korean refugees, holidays like Chuseok can be a bittersweet time, one of both gratitude for a life in freedom and grief over being unable to celebrate with family still inside North Korea.“The first Chuseok in the US felt very empty and lonely. It was just me and my two-year-old daughter, Mia, back then. It didn’t feel like a holiday. I had multiple emotions at the same time. Loneliness, emptiness… there were so many feelings that I couldn’t even put into words.“ - Holly, escaped North Korea in 2013
Chuseok celebrations have evolved to look a little different in North versus South Korea, and even in countries like the US where the Korean diaspora have resettled.In South Korea, Chuseok is considered the largest and most important holiday of the year. It’s celebrated over three days, during which a “national migration” takes place as people all over the country travel to their hometowns or to go sightseeing.
In North Korea, Chuseok is just a one-day celebration. While it is considered a key traditional holiday, its importance has been minimized relative to national holidays like the birthdays of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il, and the anniversary of the founding of the Worker’s Party. On both traditional and national holidays, North Koreans are urged to visit the statues of Kim family leaders or the Kumsan Palace of the Sun in Pyongyang, where the bodies of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il lie.
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