Carolina Herrera: From Venezuelan Socialite to Fashion Icon
María Carolina Josefina Pacanins y Niño, known globally as Carolina Herrera, is a Venezuelan American fashion designer renowned for her sophisticated personal style and the timeless elegance of her designs. Born on January 8, 1939, in Caracas, Venezuela, Herrera's journey from a privileged upbringing to a celebrated fashion career is a testament to her innate talent, keen eye for style, and unwavering determination.
Early Life and Influences
Carolina Herrera's early life was steeped in privilege and exposure to high fashion. Her father, Guillermo Pacanins Acevedo, was an Air Force officer, governor of Caracas, and Venezuela's Minister of Foreign Affairs. Her mother, María Cristina Niño Passios, further contributed to her refined upbringing. Herrera's socialite grandmother played a significant role in shaping her appreciation for fashion, introducing her to the world of couture through Balenciaga runway shows and purchasing her outfits from prestigious houses like Lanvin and Dior.
Growing up, Herrera had a governess who taught her English and French. Her youthful pastimes included tennis, riding, and ballet, but not sewing clothes for her dolls. "When I was growing up, I was more into my horses and tennis than fashion," Herrera admitted. Yet fashion was a part of Herrera's life. At 13 her grandmother took her to a Balenciaga runway show. Around the age of 14 or 15, Herrera designed a black dress that was inspired by movies from the 1930s and '40s, though her parents didn't let her wear it.
Marriages and Family
At the age of 18, Herrera married Guillermo Behrens Tello, a Venezuelan landowner and fifth cousin of Gustavo J. Behrens. They had two daughters, Mercedes and Ana Luisa, before divorcing when Herrera was 24. Ana Luisa Behrens Pacanins later married developer Luis Paraud Carpena.
In 1968, Herrera married Don Reinaldo Herrera Guevara, who inherited the title of Marquis of Torre Casa. They had two daughters, Patricia and Carolina. Patricia Cristina Herrera Pacanins married Gerrit Livingston Lansing Jr., while Carolina Adriana Herrera Pacanins married Miguel Báez and has three children: Olimpia de la Concepción Báez Herrera, Miguel Báez Herrera, and Atalanta Báez Herrera.
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International Figure
Herrera's second husband worked as a journalist, and the couple led a jet-set existence. Their activities included visiting Princess Margaret in England, attending Costume Institute galas at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and joining friends in the South of France and Paris. Herrera met photographer Robert Mapplethorpe in 1976 and became one of his subjects. She was often included on best-dressed lists.
One of Herrera's favorite places was New York City, where she had fun at the famed nightclub Studio 54. An outing there resulted in Herrera having her portrait done by Andy Warhol. He became enchanted by a bejeweled clutch she was carrying and offered to do a silkscreen portrait of Herrera in exchange for the bag.
"That was so much fun, New York in the Seventies," Herrera said in a 2016 interview. "You were mixed with a lot of creative people, talent, in the art world, in society, literature, in the movie business. Actors, actresses, musicians, they were all mixed. You used to go to dinners and find everybody together. It was fun. I loved it."
Launch of Fashion Career
In 1980, Herrera and her husband settled in New York. Around this time, she came up with the idea of designing fabrics. But when Herrera shared her plans with friend Diana Vreeland, then the editor of Vogue, Vreeland reportedly responded, "Oh, that's so boring. Why don't you do something else? Why don't you do a collection of dresses? It's much more fun."
Herrera had been employed by Pucci in Caracas for a short time in the 1960s but otherwise had no work experience. She also had no formal design training. But she had an eye for style and could tap into useful connections. Armando de Armas, the owner of a successful magazine publishing firm, offered to back her enterprise. Designer Bill Blass gave her tips on runway stagecraft.
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In 1981, Herrera held her first fashion show at New York's Metropolitan Club. She has said, "I think I thought I would do one collection, and that would be that." Instead, she received orders from stores that included Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, and Saks Fifth Avenue. However, the initial media response wasn't as positive. Some in the press considered Herrera a dilettante or felt she was engaging in "an attempt at self-definition."
The criticism stung but didn't derail Herrera. It also didn't deter her fans. One early lover of Herrera's designs was Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, who became a regular client. For Caroline Kennedy's 1986 nuptials, Herrera created both the mother-of-the-bride dress and Caroline's wedding dress, which featured appliqué shamrocks.
Building a Global Brand
Herrera's first perfume arrived in 1988. She believes designers should embrace the opportunity to launch fragrances "because that's what gets your name everywhere." In 1995, her company was acquired by the Spanish company Puig, which had worked with her on perfumes. Herrera remained creative director.
With the debut of the CH Carolina Herrera line in 2008, Herrera began offering more casual designs suited to day-to-day activities. Herrera's products now include menswear, womenswear, children's wear, accessories, a home collection, and fragrances, which are available in stores across the globe.
Herrera was able to succeed without resorting to overtime, something she feels is unnecessary. "You should be able to do what you are supposed to do during regular hours. Otherwise, you get too tired," she declared in 1994.
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Herrera's two younger daughters eventually joined her company. Patricia became a member of the design team who also undertakes special projects. Carolina established herself as creative director for fragrances. "It's quite useful to have your children in the company," Herrera said in 2013. "They tell you immediately if they don't like something."
In 2018, Herrera stepped down as creative director to become global brand ambassador. Wes Gordon stepped into the creative director role, with Herrera's approval.
Design Philosophy and Style
Carolina Herrera's designs offer a certain chic, well-heeled style, with a classic feminine sensibility, for her devoted base of women clients. The Venezuelan-born couturier creates suits, sportswear, formal gowns, and all manner of accoutrements in the mid- to stratospheric price range, and her business is one of the most prosperous in the industry.
Herrera is known for her personal style, which often includes well-tailored white blouses paired with ballgown skirts. She doesn't believe in trends and emphasizes the importance of style over fashion. "Style is something subtle that shows in small details. It's not the clothes you wear; it's the way you act, move, speak," she has said.
Awards and Recognition
Herrera's contributions to the fashion industry have been widely recognized. In 2008, she was awarded the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). She was also named "Womenswear Designer of the Year" in 2004.
Other accolades include:
- The Gold Medal of the Spanish Institute in 2002.
- Honorary Superstar Award from the Hispanic Federation in 2012.
- Style Awards Honor in 2012.
- Mercedes-Benz Presents title in 2010.
- Golden Plate Award from the American Academy of Achievement in 2005.
- Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion in 2014.
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