Duke University Clothing History: From Freshman Dinks to Fashionable Coaches
Duke University, since its renaming in 1924, has cultivated unique traditions, and clothing has played a significant role in shaping student life, reflecting social dynamics, and expressing identity. From the early days of freshman caps to the evolving styles of faculty and students, clothing at Duke tells a fascinating story of change and continuity.
The Era of Dinks and Bows: Establishing Tradition and Hierarchy
In 1925, Duke University, still in its infancy, sought to establish traditions that would set it apart. One of the earliest and most distinctive traditions involved the clothing of freshmen. Following the distribution of white badges with blue "F's" in 1924, the university introduced blue freshman caps, known as "dinks," in 1925. These caps were intended to foster class spirit and distinguish freshmen from upperclassmen.
The Chronicle reported on November 25, 1925, that the caps were a success, improving class spirit among the new students. Freshmen were initially required to wear the dinks throughout the school year, but the requirement was often relaxed. In February 1926, the dinks were abolished for the remainder of the year due to the satisfactory conduct of the freshman class. This led to the tradition of freshmen burning their caps in a bonfire. Later, the wearing of dinks was restricted to the first semester, with an exception: if Duke beat UNC in their annual football game, the freshmen could remove them earlier.
The Men’s Student Government Association (MSGA) enforced the dink tradition, and students who failed to comply faced consequences. Non-compliant students were called before a review committee and required to wear yellow dinks, with continued non-compliance potentially leading to expulsion. However, there is no record of any dink-related expulsions. Occasionally, students could request exemptions from wearing the dinks, as in the case of a 25-year-old student who felt out of place wearing the cap.
The women of Duke University adopted a similar practice in the 1930s, using hair bows instead of dinks. These bows, printed with the class year, served to differentiate first-year students from upper-level students. Non-compliant students were given red hair bows. The tradition was disrupted by World War II but resumed in 1945 with an October Dink-Bow Day, featuring games and a king and queen chosen for their clever outfits. Freshman women were asked to wear their clothes inside out and backwards.
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By 1960, The Chronicle suggested that the days of dinks were numbered, arguing that they did little to foster class unity or love for the University. The MSGA ceased the dink tradition in 1961, while women students held on to the bows a bit longer. In 1963, it was reported that freshmen women were subjected to initiations by sophomores, including wearing white bows and name tags in unusual locations. The wearing of bows finally ceased in 1968.
The Evolution of Style: From Sidelines to Scrubs
While student fashion trends evolved with the times, clothing also played a role in other aspects of university life, including athletics and medicine.
Assistant football coaches at Duke have often been known for their adventurous styles. Unlike the head coaches, who generally wore more conservative outfits, the assistant coaches embraced bolder patterns and textures. This may have been to ensure they were visible on the sidelines or simply a reflection of their personal style. Coaches like Assistant Football Coach David Holton and Freshman Football Coach John Gutekunst showcased unique ties and outfits, demonstrating how to look cool on the sidelines and in formal yearbook photos.
The Medical Center Archives at Duke also showcase the evolution of medical attire over the past 75 years. An exhibit titled "Head to Toe: Medical Attire Past & Present" features clothing and accessories from the Medical Center Archives collections, exploring the role of apparel in the health profession at Duke Medicine. Items include an original 1970s-era Duke nursing student uniform, an early medical bag of a Duke physician, and the graduation cap of the first School of Medicine Dean, Wilburt Davison. The exhibit also delves into the evolution of the School of Nursing uniform, what Duke physicians wore to protect themselves from ultraviolet radiation during operations, and why the growth of the Medical Center necessitated a dress code.
Clothing as a Reflection of Identity and Culture
Clothing at Duke University, like in many other societies, has served as a powerful means of expressing identity and navigating social dynamics.
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The tradition of freshman dinks and bows was intended to create a sense of unity among new students and to distinguish them from upperclassmen. However, it also served to reinforce a hierarchical structure within the university. The discontinuation of these traditions reflects a shift towards a more egalitarian and inclusive campus culture.
The styles of Duke's assistant football coaches demonstrate how clothing can be used to express individuality and personality. Their bold and adventurous outfits stand in contrast to the more conservative attire of the head coaches, suggesting a willingness to challenge conventions and stand out from the crowd.
The evolution of medical attire at Duke reflects changes in medical practice, technology, and social norms. From the protective clothing worn during operations to the uniforms of nursing students, clothing has played a vital role in ensuring safety, hygiene, and professional identity within the medical field.
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