Hand Sewing for Beginners: A Comprehensive Guide

Many people believe that sewing is only possible with a sewing machine. However, hand sewing is a valuable skill that can be both relaxing and practical. It's essential for finishing machine-sewn projects and can be a portable, enjoyable craft. This guide will cover the basics of hand sewing, providing step-by-step instructions and tips for beginners.

Why Learn to Sew by Hand?

Rosie, a 34-year-old from London, UK, discovered the importance of hand sewing after using a sewing machine. She realized that many projects require hand finishing and that her hand sewing skills were not as polished as she thought. Hand sewing offers several benefits:

Finishing Touches: Hand sewing is often needed to complete machine-sewn projects, such as blind hems and attaching linings.
Portability: Hand sewing projects are easy to take on the go, making them perfect for travel or waiting rooms.
Relaxation: The repetitive nature of hand sewing can be calming and meditative.
Mindfulness: Hand sewing allows you to be fully present in the moment, engaging both your hands and mind.
Creative Fulfillment: Hand sewing provides a creative outlet and the satisfaction of making something by hand.

Essential Hand Sewing Supplies

Before you begin, gather the following supplies:

Fabric: Any fabric will do, but scraps are great for beginners.
Needles: A variety of "sharps" or all-purpose sewing needles.
Thread: All-purpose polyester thread in a color that matches your fabric. Contrasting thread can be used for practice.
Scissors: Sharp fabric shears for cutting fabric and smaller embroidery scissors for snipping thread.
Pins: Straight pins to hold fabric in place, especially for larger projects.
Ruler and/or Measuring Tape: To measure seams and mark lines.
Fabric Marking Pen: A disappearing fabric marking pen.
Seam Ripper: For removing mistakes.
Needle Threader: Optional, for those who have trouble threading needles.
Iron and Ironing Board: For pressing fabric and creating crisp hems.

Getting Started: Threading the Needle

Threading the needle can be tricky, but here are some helpful tips:

Cut a piece of thread about 20-25 inches long (from your fingers to your shoulder).
Make a clean cut on the end of the thread with sharp scissors.
Wet the end of the thread with water or lick it.
Hold the needle in one hand and the thread in the other, line up the thread with the hole in the needle, and push it through.
Pull the thread through about 5 inches and make it so it goes the same direction as the longer end of the thread.
Tie a double knot at the end of the longer side of the thread.

If you're having trouble, use a needle threader.

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Basic Hand Sewing Stitches

Running Stitch

The running stitch is a fast and easy stitch for sewing seams. It's suitable for items that won't get a lot of wear. Shorter stitches are more permanent, while longer stitches are used for basting.

When to use a running stitch?

The running stitch is a fast and easy way to sew a seam, so you can use it when the item you’re sewing won’t get a lot of wear. Use shorter stitches when you want them to be permanent, and longer ones when you are just basting the fabric together.

What is basting in sewing?

Basting is just a fancy way to say that you are sewing things together temporarily. You use longer stitches than you normally would so you can more easily remove them later. This is often done to temporarily sew things together before machine sewing them.

Running Stitch Steps:

Bring the needle up near the top of your seam and make sure the knot catches on the back.
Go forward one stitch length and push the needle back down into the fabric.
Bring the needle up one stitch length from the back to the front.
Go forward one stitch length again and push the needle back down into the fabric.
Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you get to the end of your seam.
Once you get to the end, turn your fabric over to the back, run your needle under the back of an existing stitch, leave a loop and pull your needle through it to make a knot.

Backstitch

The backstitch creates a strong, tidy seam that resembles machine stitching.

When should you use a backstitch?

Use a backstitch when you want your seam to be a little stronger. This stitch will produce results that look closest to what a sewing machine creates and gives you a tidy and strong seam.

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Backstitch Steps:

Bring the needle up near the top of your seam and make sure the knot catches on the back.
Go forward one stitch length and push the needle back down into the fabric.
Bring the needle up one stitch length from the back to the front.
Go back one stitch length and bring the needle down in the hole that the previous stitch went down in. (This is what gives this stitch the name backstitch.)
Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you get to the end of your seam.
Once you get to the end, turn your fabric over to the back, run your needle under the back of an existing stitch, leave a loop and pull your needle through it to make a knot.

Slip Stitch (Ladder Stitch)

The slip stitch is used to close openings in fabric invisibly. It's commonly used for pillows and stuffed animals.

When do you use a slip stitch?

Use a slip stitch to sew up openings in fabric when you don’t want your stitches to show.

Slip Stitch (Ladder Stitch) Steps:

Fold the raw edges of your fabric inside the piece you’re working on and press with an iron for best results.
Bring your needle up inside the opening, along the fold line, and make sure the knot catches inside.
Push the needle down on the opposite side of the opening into the fold line. Push it to the left about 1/4-inch and bring the needle back up on the fold.
Take your needle back to the side of the opening you started on, and push it down into the fold line. Push it to the left about 1/4-inch and bring the needle back up.
Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you get to the end of the opening.
Once you get to the end, run your needle under an existing stitch, leave a loop and pull your needle through it to make a knot.
Push the needle through the seam and snip the excess thread as close to the fabric as possible.

Hemming Techniques

A hem is created by folding the raw edge of fabric twice and sewing it down. This is commonly done on curtains, pants, and skirts.

How do you create a hem?

Fold your fabric up about 1/4-1/2 an inch and press with an iron. Fold up up again however many inches you would like your hem to be and press again. You make larger folds in pants and skirts if you want to make them longer in the future for a growing child.

Whip Stitch Hem

The whip stitch is the easiest way to sew a hem when it doesn't matter if the stitches show on the back. It can also be used as a decorative stitch.

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When should you use a whip stitch?

A whip stitch is the easiest way to sew a hem when it doesn’t matter if the stitches show on the back. You can also use it as a decorative stitch if you want the stitches to show.

Whip Stitch Steps:

Bring the needle up inside the fold and push it through the top. Make sure the knot catches on the back.
Bring the needle to the left at an angle and grab a small amount of fabric from above the fold. (This stitch will show on the front, so make it very small, only grabbing a couple threads from the fabric.)
Push the needle through the back of the fold just below where you grabbed the fabric.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you get to the end. When you get the hang of it, you can do the grabbing and pushing through the fold in one motion.
Once you get to the end, run your needle under an existing stitch, leave a loop and pull your needle through it to make a knot.

Blind Hem Stitch

The blind hem stitch is a popular choice for curtains and pants because it's virtually invisible on both sides of the fabric when using matching thread.

When should you use a blind hem stitch?

The blind hem stitch is probably the most popular way to hem curtains and pants. Use this when you don’t want the stitches to show on either side of your fabric. When you use thread that matches your fabric, the stitches are virtually invisible.

Blind Hem Steps:

Bring the needle up inside the fold and push it through the top. Make sure the knot catches on the back.
Bring the needle straight up and grab a small amount of fabric from above the fold. (This stitch will show on the front, so make it very small, only grabbing a couple threads from the fabric.)
Bring the needle back down to the fold, close to where you first brought the needle up. Push it through the fold, travel the needle along the fold about 1/4-inch to the left, and bring it back out through the top of the fold.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you reach the end of the hem.
Once you get to the end, run your needle under an existing stitch, leave a loop and pull your needle through it to make a knot.

Blanket Stitch Hem

The blanket stitch creates a decorative edge and is often used on blankets.

When should you use a blanket stitch?

Use a blanket stitch when you want a decorative edge to show on your hem. This stitch is frequently done around the edges of a blanket, and that’s where it gets its name.

Blanket Stitch Hem Steps:

Bring the needle up inside the fold, on the bottom fold line. Make sure the knot catches on the back.
Bring the needle to the left at an angle and push it through the fabric above the fold. Do not pull the thread all the way through, leave a loop at the bottom.
Bring the needle around to the front, through the loop and pull gently until the stitch is secure.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you reach the end of the hem.
Once you get to the end, run your needle under an existing stitch, leave a loop and pull your needle through it to make a knot.

Regenerative Sewing: A Mindful Approach

Sew Liberated promotes the concept of "Regenerative Sewing," which encourages a slower, more mindful approach to sewing. This involves:

Making less, but more meaningful stuff: Focus on creating items that you truly need and love.
Sewing more slowly, but more enjoyably: Take your time and savor the process of hand sewing.
Hybrid Mindset: Combine machine sewing with hand stitching techniques to bring your work-in-progress with you on the go.

Louisa's self-published book, “Hand Sewing Clothing: A Guide,” is everything you will need to jumpstart your hand sewing skills. Sarah is apprenticed at Colonial Williamsburg and is a Journeywoman in Mantua-making and Millinery. I love her hashtag, #RememberWhatYourHandsCanDo. Alexis is a multi-talented thread and cloth artist who sells hand sewing supplies as well as e-books about hand sewing. Brooks Ann’s interview on the Love to Sew Podcast is such a fun peek behind the scenes of a former NYC costumer and current bespoke formalwear designer and maker. (And lots of other topics, such as #RegenerativeSewing, mending tips, pattern and project sneak peeks, and Meg’s illiteracy when it comes to pop culture. 😉 )

Tips for Beginners

Practice Regularly: The more you practice, the better you'll become.
Don't Expect Perfection: Mistakes are part of the learning process.
Be Patient: Hand sewing takes time and patience.
Experiment with Different Stitches: Try out different stitches to see which ones you prefer.
Find Inspiration: Look for inspiration online or in books.
Join a Sewing Community: Connect with other sewers to share tips and encouragement.

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